I've never had a bad sandwich at The Sentinel, but I've complained about the place, mostly because I think it's overhyped. As a sandwich lover and a fan of Denis Leary's restaurant, Canteen, I really want to love his sandwiches: a daily-changing menu of homemade, sustainable ingredients on fresh-baked bread.
On my first three visits, I've been disappointed by the haphazard construction, which to me is one of the most important factors of sandwich-making. Though I know the lunch rush is very busy, the sandwiches felt thrown together, which seems unacceptable for a place that always ends up on lists of the city's best sandwiches. I judge it by higher standards, but I keep giving The Sentinel a chance. On my last visit, I was very impressed.
I met my friend Phil there for lunch; he goes fairly often and says you can't go wrong with whatever meatball is on the menu. He ordered the lamb and feta meatball sandwich, served on a beautiful seeded roll. He didn't offer me a bite, but it looked wonderful and he seemed to agree.
I ordered the cold barbecued pork with carrot slaw (pictured very top and below). It was unlike anything I've eaten before, which I appreciate. Cold, saucy pork sliced thinly like roast beef, with a carrot and cilantro slaw that reminded me of banh mi.
Though looks-wise, this sandwich falls into the disgusting but delicious category, it was well constructed and held together beautifully despite its messiness.
Leary has said that bread is the most important part of a sandwich, and The Sentinel's bread is outstanding. This fresh-baked wheat roll remind me of the sweet, buttery dinner rolls often served in the South, but better, and it complimented the barbecue sauce and slaw in a familiar yet exotic way. Sentinel, you just earned yourself another chance.
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