Between the Bread

It's hard for an expensive sandwich to win me over. With so many cheap, delicious, and giant sammies available (banh mi comes to mind, as does the Honey Baked Ham store by my house), a sandwich over $8 better be transcendent. So when 'Wichcraft, the upscale NYC sandwich shop founded by Sisha Ortuzar and Tom Colicchio (of Craft and "Top Chef" fame), opened in San Francisco, I was prepared to hate it.

Admittedly, the first sandwich I tried (chicken salad) was somewhat disappointing. Not bad, but not transcendent. Then I tried again with something totally far-out: the marinated white anchovies with soft-cooked egg, roasted onion, salsa verde, and frisee on country bread. Now this is a sandwich well worth $9, assuming you like anchovies. An unexpected combo of unlikely, gourmet ingredients I'd never make at home. I found myself craving it.