Between the Bread

Brian Buys Us Big, Sweaty Sandwiches

Nancy Einhart — Sat, 12 May 2012 10:11:32 PDT

You may have noticed that I like sandwiches. The day my video came out declaring me a sandwich connoisseur, resident CEO and hoagie aficionado Brian Sugar offered to buy me lunch, on one condition. It had to be his favorite sandwich, what Brian calls a "big, sweaty sandwich" from Gambino's.

I love Gambino's New York-style subs, though I normally wouldn't order an Italian meat torpedo like this, stacked with ham, salami, and mortadella. But when the boss offers to buy everyone lunch, you get his favorite sandwich. And I must admit, it was delicious.

Here's what I love about a Gambino's sub: the shredded iceberg lettuce, the sturdy yet soft roll soaked with oil, and the generous dousing of red wine vinegar, which, as Brian points out, is underrated. The combination of the cool lettuce and vinegar with spicy, unctuous Italian meats just doesn't work as well with turkey.

Thanks, Brian. You have good taste.

Mom and Me and Bun Mee

nancyeinhart — Sat, 31 Mar 2012 18:37:30 PDT

Since my favorite Vietnamese sandwich costs $3, I was skeptical about Bun Mee, the bourgie but adorably hip banh mi spot in Pacific Heights. But after hearing some good things, I stopped by for some sammies with my mom before the Drive by Truckers concert.

We ordered two and went halvsies: five-spice chicken and smoky grilled eggplant. Though I wasn't disappointed, I also wasn't blown away. We loved the depth of flavor in the five spice chicken (below), though I couldn't distinguish the taste of the caramel aioli. The eggplant banh mi (above), dressed with cauliflower relish and red curry aioli, was underwhelming; I thought the eggplant was undercooked.

My biggest gripe, beyond the creative aiolis not standing out, was the bread. Though very fresh, it lacked the density and crustiness of the sandwiches in Little Saigon or even New Orleans po'boys. The sandwiches were good, but not great; I think I'll take Saigon Sandwiches for $3 instead.

Bagel and Lox Between the Bread

Nancy Einhart — Sat, 17 Mar 2012 09:46:31 PDT

On a rare day when I don't bring my lunch to work, I always tell myself I'll get a salad, but I end up falling for a sandwich instead. This happened on a recent excursion to Fleur de Sel to buy a tasty salad. But when I stepped up the counter, I was tempted by this bagel and lox-inspired sandwich.

On soft and yummy multigrain bread, this sandwich combined velvety smoked salmon, lemon-tinged cream cheese, pickled red onions, and capers. Though it was a little too wet (made earlier that day), it exceeded my premade sandwich expectations. The zesty, creamy, tangy, and bright flavors added up to a deliciously complex mouthful for just four ingredients.

Also: capers on a sandwich is a great idea. I'm going to try it on some other combos too.

The Magic of Mushroom Sandwiches

nancyeinhart — Tue, 14 Feb 2012 16:49:03 PST

For most of my life, I hated mushrooms, and when I turned the corner into mushroom conversion, I became somewhat obsessed. Lately, 'shrooms have been my go-to sandwich filling if I'm not feeling particularly meaty. The earthy, salty taste and the substantial presence feel so decadent, especially when melted with cheese.

First we have a mushroom panini from DeLessio Market, smushed into cheesy service with zucchini and onions. Like many mushroom panini, this suffered from a slight slippery-ness, but that didn't stop me from eating the whole thing.

Below, we have a rare specimen of pretty decent airport food: a toasted mushroom and red pepper sub from a Potbelly knockoff at Chicago O'Hare. It wasn't quite as exciting as my Schlotzsky's encounter, but after a long flight, it hit the spot.

Ahoy (Again) to Peg Leg Pete's Grouper Sandwich

nancyeinhart — Sun, 22 Jan 2012 22:40:28 PST

I have already sung the praises of Peg Leg Pete's fried grouper sandwich, but one visit wasn't enough. So on my last trip to Pensacola, dad, Dee, and I took Andrew to taste the strange deliciousness of American cheese on fried fish.

Thankfully, Peg Leg's did not disappoint. We ordered two dozen oysters, an afternoon bushwacker, and a few fish sammies. I got the Cajun grilled grouper this time (below), and though the fish is just as succulent and buttery, the fried version still wins out.

I don't necessarily subscribe to the philosophy that everything is better fried, but Peg Leg's just knows how to treat a slab of battered grouper. The fish is so indulgently unctuous, like a buried treasure in a kaiser bun with cheese. Just trust me on this.

A Tempeh Take on Banh Mi

nancyeinhart — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 09:05:53 PST

The first time I encountered tempeh, I was a high-schooler venturing trepidatiously into a vegetarian restaurant in Atlanta, and the soy patty sandwich blew me away.

Since then, I have never had tempeh that impressed me much, until this tempeh banh mi at Urban Picnic. The protein is savory, spiced, and layered with flavor, like a good marinated meat.

More details and photos after the jump.

Making the Schlotzsky's Connection

nancyeinhart — Mon, 02 Jan 2012 16:45:41 PST

For years, I've been connecting through Houston airport and longingly passing by a Schlotzsky's counter, but I never seem to end up there at meal time. This year, our stop en route to Pensacola fell around lunch hour, so we finally got to enjoy one of the muffuletta-inspired sandwiches.

We ordered the Turkey, Original-style; the Original is the sandwich that launched Schlotzsky's in Austin, TX. Featuring turkey, salami, three cheeses, onions, lettuce, tomato, mustard, and black olives inspired by muffulettas' olive salad, this Schlotzsky's sammie came on the usual giant round bread, which was just as tasty as I remembered. Overall, the sandwich wasn't as great as my previously experiences with Schlotzsky's, but for airport food, it was outstanding.

A Waffle Sandwich Dine and Dash

Nancy Einhart — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 16:32:11 PST

Waffles are an underrated sandwich vehicle, but I'm a big fan of salty-sweet waffle sandwiches. So when I heard about a cafe in San Francisco earning props for its waffle creations, I put it on the sand wist list. When I finally made it to Dash Cafe, the waffle sandwiches underwhelmed me, but maybe I caught them on a bad day. At least the Belgian-style waffles showed promise; click through to see.

Hidden Gem: Rhea's Deli in San Francisco

nancyeinhart — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:17:23 PST

Range may have a Michelin star, but Rhea's Deli, on the same block of Valencia in San Francisco's Mission District, has the underground gourmet grub. From the street, it looks like any old neighborhood market, but inside, it crafts big, brash sandwiches that meld very SF ingredients (like Acme bread) with exotic flavors like katsu pork and Korean marinated steak. Click through to see what you're missing.

A Tale of Three Tortas: Massive Tortas in the Mission

nancyeinhart — Fri, 11 Nov 2011 17:49:19 PST

Last but hardly least in my tale of three tortas comes San Francisco's very own That's It market, an unassuming corner store on Mission and 23rd that's been on my sand wish list ever since Anthony Bourdain downed the gargantuan cubano torta on No Reservations

Once a hidden gem, That's It is now infamous for its cubano, a massive serving of late-night drunken sustenance that includes ham, chorizo, pork, bacon, and ham. Wow. Massive amounts of meat aren't really my thing, so I opted for the chicken torta (pictured below) while Andrew ordered the ham (above), both of which were plenty massive - and massively delicious. Get the full lowdown.